A few weeks ago I was invited to a Twitter chat with NASCAR
driver Jeff Gordon and the team from Jeff Gordon Cellars to sample their newest
(2008) Joie de Vivre red blend. Straight
off, this wine is delicious. It is big and full with a pleasing sweetness that
was more pronounced in my experience for a dry, red, blend; but it works
incredibly well. The breadth of dark, juicy fruits really shines in this wine.
To me this is very much a drinking wine more so than a food pairing wine, but
that is really just a statement on how well it drank on its own. The finish is
gently sweet and the tannins are soft, chewy and well integrated.
Leading up to the tasting a number of us on Twitter were cracking
NASCAR and car racing jokes to get everyone laughing. When Jeff Gordon arrived
on the Twitter chat he was cracking some of his own, including a few about
being a dad and having to steal away to chat about wine. That's real life!
The fruit for the wine is sourced from 3-5 different
vineyards and the 2008 blend is made from Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah and aged
in barrels (mostly 2-3 yr used) for 20 months. The online price for this wine
directly from Jeff Gordon Cellars is $61, but you can get it for $55 if you
order a case. Send me the other 11 bottles if you don't have room! Jeff Gordon
Cellars also produce varietal Cabernet, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Chardonny, a
Rosé of Syrah and the Joie de Vivre blend.
(The painted black bottle didn't have enough contrast with
the gold lettering for me to get a good camera shot. )
Glimpses of Alsace
I’ve never been to the Alsace region of France, but I do
hope to get there someday. As a Riesling fan I have tried a few of the most
well-known Alsatian producers' Rieslings with across the boards enjoyment. I've also found
the Alsatian Gewurztraminers to be notable and that the Pinot Blanc made in the
region is a great cocktail wine or an entre to a meal of wine pairings. So when
I was invited to a Wines of Alsace dinner I immediately checked my calendar and
was quite happy to find I was free.
( The magnum of "Cuvee Frederich Emile" Trimbach 2006 Riesling. )
The dinner was held at Cragie on Main,
a well known and highly regarded restaurant located in Central Square in
Cambridge, MA. Not having been there before I had no context for the food. Ultimately
the menu prepared for the dinner was a made-for-us edition of their rotating sampler menu, so my ignorance did
me no harm or good on this night. After realizing there were eight courses and
ten wines however, I fully expected something exciting was afoot!
Dinner lasted over three hours and had several highlights
making both a follow-up visit to Cragie on Main and an Alsatian wine
acquisition sure things for me.
A Crémant, the Schoenhetiz Brut NV, was served with the
first two amuse courses and after a few sips several of us also noticed the
price, $14. This wine is a huge value at only $14!!! This is a beautiful bubbly
made from a blend of Pinot Auxerrois and Pinot Blanc that comes off crisp, minerally
with hints of sweet, baked breads and treats. Serve this wine as you would any
Champagne or Sparkling Wine.
( A celery/apple sorbet with a fresh pulled, local cheese. I would have
enjoyed this with the Crémant as well!)
I may have only had Alsatian Pinot Gris once or twice before
and after thinking about when and where I didn't recall any lingering
conclusions or wines of note. Not after this tasting! We were only served two
Pinot Gris, but they both made an impact. First up was the Rolly Gassman 2004
Pinot Gris. The nose is overflowing with fruit, flowers, spices and a fullness
to make it all sing. The wine is slightly sweet and made a fitting appearance
with the pasta course that had a rich creamy sauce.
( The pasta is a fantastic meal all on its own! )
The second Pinot Gris was
the Charles Koehly 2001 'Altenberg Grand Cru' Vendages Tardives. This wine was
served with a dessert of Whole Wheat Crepes, apples and a butternut ice cream.
Slam dunk. Sadly we were told the story that the winemaker who was the sole
heir to his family business had died two years prior to this wine's vintage.
Very sad for the family and most certainly a loss for the wine world. This wine
is concentrated and bit reductive, drinking like a Madeira for me, making for a
great match with the dessert. The butternut ice cream has been put on a short
list for a home project!
( This dessert was really fantastic, and would be just so without wine. But why? )
The "Hengst Grand Cru" Zind-Humbrecht 2010
Gewurztraminer was outstanding for me because of the nose. The perfumed aromas
of Muscat came to mind, but there was something a bit less wild connecting the
fruit & flowers in the nose of this wine. Served with slow-roasted pheasant,the
sweetness of this wine was well matched with the concentrated flavors of the
confit on the pheasant.
( Pheasant. A terrible picture, I know. )
And of course we enjoyed several Rieslings, including one
served from a magnum, which ended up being my favorite of three we tasted. The
2006 Trimbach "Cuvee Frederich Emile" from a magnum is drinking
beautifully right now. This
medium-bodied Riesling is a bit creamy with lots of orange and citrus
fruits in both the nose and mouth. The nose also has a spectrum of minerally
and petrol aromas that are not so over the top to not feel at home at the beginning
AND end of each sip.
The wine isn't sweet, but is also not dry enough to take
away the sweetening effect when paired with something spicy, like Kampachi
sashimi & pears with a miso dressing and pickled mustard seeds.
( A Mi-Cuit Sea Trout which was paired with two Rieslings. )
One other notable wine was the Engelgarten Marcel Deiss 2007
white blend. A field blend of five grapes (Muscat, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot
Noir and Pinot Blanc) the wine has a beautiful orange laced nose with moderate
sweetness through the whole taste. There is an exotic quality to the flavors in
this wine, something magical which I believe is a perk of both the grapes used
AND field blending, making this wine easily notable amongst peers made from
single varieties.
( Quite a lineup! )
The whole dinner was a nicely woven mix of aromas, flavors
and textures. Adding the conversation which ranged from Asian gangs and demons
to the wines themselves, there were plenty of good times and smiles had by
everyone who attended. Thank you's go out to Stephanie Teuwen and Louise Jordan
with Wines of Alsace for hosting, Chris Lyons for inviting me to dinner and the
staff at Cragie on Main for taking such good care of us. Tips of the hat go
also go out to Richard Auffrey and Jacqueline Church for the great
conversation and laughs!
With the exception of the Crémant the average suggested
price on these wines is around $50. I believe the Frederich Emile Riesling and
the Rolly Gassman Pinot Gris are both very much worthy of prices in this range.
And don't forget the Schoenhetiz Brut NV Crémant for around $14 a bottle!
Cheers!
Jason
Disclosure of Material Connection: I received one or more of the products or services mentioned above for free in the hope that I would mention it on my blog. Regardless, I only recommend products or services I use personally and believe will be good for my readers. I am disclosing this in accordance with the Federal Trade Commission’s 16 CFR, Part 255: “Guides Concerning the Use of Endorsements and Testimonials in Advertising.”
Disclosure of Material Connection: I received one or more of the products or services mentioned above for free in the hope that I would mention it on my blog. Regardless, I only recommend products or services I use personally and believe will be good for my readers. I am disclosing this in accordance with the Federal Trade Commission’s 16 CFR, Part 255: “Guides Concerning the Use of Endorsements and Testimonials in Advertising.”
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