We here at the Ancient Fire Wine Blog visited the Finger Lakes Region of New York State for the first time ever this month. We learned a few things about the region before we went and during our visit, which we believe will help others understand this unique place.
( Available from Wikimedia Commons )
Geological Formations
As it is with most wine grape growing regions around the
world the unique geologic history of the area left behind artifacts that
contributed to what is now special about the place. The Finger Lakes region of
New York State as we know it today was transformed by glaciers beginning about
2 million years ago. The glaciers changed what were a series of north flowing
rivers (towards Lake Ontario) into long thin lakes. As the glaciers advanced
and retreated the river valleys were widened and deepened to create the lakes
we see today. After the final glacial retreat deposits of shale, siltstone,
clay-rich limestone beds and glacial wash were left behind in a variety of
configurations in the region. These soils and rocks created a variety of
conditions affecting much in the area, including agriculture and of course grape
growing. With experience it has been found that some grape varieties prefer the
glacial gifts more than others.
The Microclimates
On top of what was bestowed in the soils by the glaciers,
the lakes themselves provide another unique element that form a series of
microclimates around the lakes. The depth of the lakes means they rarely freeze
and the relative warmth of the lakes compared to the air in winter and the
cooling affects in the summer help to moderate the temperature of the lakeside
vineyards. There are pockets of specific climates that see unique warming,
cooling, drainage and air flow throughout the region. The best vineyardists are
able to recognize and exploit these situations to the benefit of the wines made
from the grapes.
The overall weather in the region covers a broad range and
is unpredictable. Snow and bitter temperatures in the winter share the same
location with intense heat and humidity in the summer. Anytime from February to
November can see a “rainy season” with the timing of the rains source of
constant concern. This has proven that even the most experienced and
resourceful grape growers must be their own local weatherman, constantly
looking at the sky and feeling the vibe in the vineyard. This is no easy job!
History
While there is evidence of pre-Iroquois civilization in the
region, much of what we know about the area from pre-Colonial and Colonial times
comes via the Five Nations of Iroquois (Cayuga,
Mohawk, Oneida, Onondaga and Seneca) from which the names of the lakes and
rivers in the regions were derived.
Unfortunately the Iroquois largely sided with the British
during the American Revolution which led to them being driven from their home
in the Fingers Lakes region by Continental Army. After the revolution large
swaths of land in the area were given to war veterans with the native Americans
finding themselves isolated to reservations. The new settlers colonized the
area creating many of the places and traditions we experience there today.
From there a rich history evolved with highlights such the
creation of Cornell University in 1865 and the birth of the women’s suffrage
movement in Seneca Falls in the early 20th century. More recently the
Finger Lakes has secured a place as an outdoor recreation and vacation
destination that many people enjoy.
Travel & Tourism
With rich natural beauty in the mountains, rivers and lakes
the region has become a destination for outdoor enthusiasts. The growth of the
winemaking industry, museums, shopping, golf and motor sports in addition to the
boating, fishing and hiking popular in the area means interest in visiting draws
people from all corners of the world.
With three formally organized wine trails on Cayuga, Seneca
and Keuka lakes, finding the region’s wines is easy and fun. A variety of
travel, tourism and wine trail organizations have extensive online information
to help visitors from outside the region plan trips that include a rich mix of
the activities available. You can find links in the reference section below for
more information.
Wine History
And finally to the wine. For the Ancient Fire Wine Blog to
take this long in a post to get to the wine is rare, but we felt it was necessary
to share what we recently (and newly) learned about the region with our
readers. It is a unique and beautiful place and knowing a bit about it before
you delve into the wine does help you appreciate it when you do.
And we are going to make you wait even longer for reviews.
In this, the last section of the post, we will get you current on the origin of
the winemaking in the region and will return starting next week with reviews of
where we visited and the wines we recommend people source and try.
Wine in the Finger Lakes region has its first documented
history with sacramental wine in Hammondsport in the early 1800’s. Later that
century two winemaking companies garnered world-wide attention for their
sparkling wines. By 1900 the region had 25,000 acres under vine.
Prohibition, phylloxera and West Coast competition created
problems in the 20th century and interest in wines NOT made from the
locally hardy native-American grape varieties kept interest in the region’s
wines very low well into the 1900’s.
What happened next is where the magical story of the modern
epoch of Finger Lakes wines starts. In the early 1950’s a Ukranian immigrant
named Dr. Konstantin Frank took work at the Geneva Experiment Station of
Cornell University on the northwest corner of Seneca Lake. With experience
growing vinifera grapes (noble and well known grape types) in harsh climates he
was part of the spark that modernized the winemaking in the region. Within a
decade his experience and adamant professions about growing vinifera, experiencing
much ridicule of course, were proven with the launch of Vinifera Wine Cellars
in Hammondsport. Dr. Frank’s wines are known worldwide and the winery is
consistently held out as the source of some of the finest the Finger Lakes wine
available.
Soon others came from Europe and myriad domestic locations
looking to harness the unique geology and climate to make wine. As of this writing there are over 100 wineries
in the region with new operations coming online each year.
Wine is made for many reasons in the Finger Lakes, from true
passion for making great wine, a commitment to local agriculture and
stewardship of the land, to retirement projects and finally savvy business people
using the travel and tourism industry to draw consumers. What does that mean
for the quality of the wines you might find? Simply put, it’s all over the
place.
The focus of the region is on aromatic whites like Riesling
and Gewurztraminer, and rightfully so. These two grapes are a good fit for the
soil and climate mitigating some of the uphill battle winemakers experience
when trying to coax grapes into wine. And the wines are exciting to smell and
taste! Our reviews of these wines will be the ones you will want to pay the
closest attention to. Missing the greatest examples of these wines when in the region
should be a criminal offense!
There are also bright spots for red wines, but with much
less consistency than the whites. There is a vibrant conversation going on
amongst the grape growers and winemakers about red wines and their place in the
region, which is a very good thing. Just like what I found on my recent trip to
Virginia, I didn’t find lots of distinction across the range of red wines, but do
have reviews that represent some as real standouts.
There are also wines made from the native and hybrid grapes
of the earlier eras, local fruits and grapes that may not be well suited for
the place. Some winemakers eschew the native & hybrid grapes entirely,
while others believe some plots produce good grapes and wines that are pleasant
and worth the time. Use of the local fruits and “fish out of water” grapes are
spiced in everywhere with similar motivations. We tried several of all of these types of
wines and I don’t disagree with their existence in theory. Our reviews will
help you navigate the morass created here.
Until Next Time
Now that you know a little more about the region, are you
thirsty? I know I am, and I was just there! Next week we will begin sharing our
winery visits, reviews and pictures from this beautiful place that is
calling to us all.
Cheers!
Jason
References
4 comments:
I can't wait to read your recommendations for this area - we're heading there in November for a long weekend and can't wait!
@Mardi - you will have a great time! Our trip was filled with recommendations direct from the editors of the New York Cork Report whom I am getting to know. They really do know NY wine and I hope my reviews will do justice to their efforts to steer me well.
Jason
Thanks for the informative and interesting post. We'd love to explore that region sometime soon.
Wish I'd known you were here! I live by Lake Ontario by Rochester and we were just in Naples on Sept. 18th!!
I'm originally a California girl but this lovely part of the country has captured my heart. I enjoyed your post.
Post a Comment