If you’ve been reading along over the last week or so you’d
be sure I enjoyed my first trip to the Finger Lakes region earlier this month.
The beauty of the lakes and the surrounding countryside is like few places I
have ever been. All of the local folks we met were as casual and nice as those
we often meet in Vermont and at home in New Hampshire. My wife and I didn’t
specifically quest for food, but we did find excellent fare at the Red New
Bistro, tasty & well prepared dishes at the Blue Pointe Grille and the
House of Hong in Watkins Glen, as well as the Village Tavern in Hammondsport. But
of course, we came for the wine!
I gave the Finger Lakes Rieslings specific treatment based
on finding them to standout all their own. I followed that with a post
containing a roundup of the Other White Wines from the Finger Lakes I found
interesting, recommending whites from several producers and in several styles
that tell more of the Finger Lakes story.
That leaves me to share my thoughts on the reds. I tried not
to color my views of the Finger Lakes wines too much with research ahead of
time, but there was only so much I could do. The Rieslings were not new to me,
and the debate over which reds, if any, are really worthy of the effort in the
region was also hard to miss. That said, I confidently expected that I would
find red wines of interest to me and would have a firsthand opportunity to
explore what was being made; drawing any conclusions that I could.
Best of the Best
Rooster Hill 2009 Estate Cabernet Franc – This wine is another solid youthful drinker. The nose came off as average in intensity with a nice mix of earth and greens. I picked up tart cherries, baking spices and a bit of vanilla on the palate. The tannins were coarse but not too aggressive. I bought a bought of this to specifically let it age to see how it mellows and improves.
Ravines 2008 Cabernet Franc – This wine is drinking good
young, but should improve with age. I base this on the healthy acidity and
softening tannins that wrap the cherries, greens and earthy notes of this wine.
The oak is restrained and I picked up some cured meats or bacon essence as I
continued to sip this wine.
Ravines 2007 Meritage – This wine is a delicate blend with
red berries, spices and just enough oak to create the structure needed for it
to please. The aromatics are mellow, but a good combination of fruit, earth and
oak. The tannins are present and softening, hinting at solid aging potential. A
blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot.
Red New 2008 Glacier Ridge Merlot – The first thing that
grabbed me about this wine was the intensity of the color, it is deep and
concentrated. The aromas followed on with lots of raspberry, cherry and whiffs
of oak. The intensity of the color was matched by an incredible body. The mouth
is rich with berries, a little meaty and finishes with velvety tannins. This
wine is full bodied and bold in the friendliest of ways.
Heart & Hands 2009 Pinot Noir – We didn’t actually get
to Heart & Hands on this trip, but I spotted the Pinot on the menu at the
Red Newt Bistro and knew I had to try it. This is one of the smoothest Pinot
Noirs I have ever tasted. The nose is pretty big, full of cherries, rose petal
(maybe some other flowers too) and hints of a smoky camp fire. The mouth
presents cherries, dried fruits and a little earth. The tannins are mild and
very soft. I ordered several bottles of the available Pinots as soon as I got
home.
Other Notable Juice
Six Mile Creek Quintessence 2009 – This wine presents warm
oak in the nose, a deep, concentrated color and healthy aromas of red fruits.
The flavors of black cherry, plum and blackberry are very pleasing, following
with smooth tannins and a dry finish. This wine is drinking well young, but
will likely benefit from cellar time. A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and
Cabernet Sauvignon.
Keuka Lake Vineyards 2009 Leon Millot – I’ve had Millot more
than a couple of times at tastings of wines from Vermont and New Hampshire. The
cold-weather hardiness of the grape makes it a great option in those locations.
The thing that grabbed me about this wine was the color. Dark, dark, dark is
what I wrote in my notes. The second thing that grabbed me was the strength of
the aromas. There was plum, dark cherry and blackberry bursting out of the
glass. These flavors followed through in the mouth and were accented with
currants and a dry, moderate length finish. This wine is immensely drinkable
and coming from a less-than-standard grape helps with the diversity of the
Finger Lakes wine story.
Heron Hill 2008 Reserve Blaufrankish – Blaufrankish,
Lemberger, you pick the name. It really only matters if you identify with
Austria or Germany more when it comes to this type of wine, but since I wasn’t
in either place the style it is made in is subjective and in the hands of the
producer for naming. The nose offered baking spices, violets and what I would
say was unripe plum. In the mouth it was smooth and tasted of red fruits and a
bit of earth. It is well put together
and interesting for the left hand turn it makes off the usual red wine road.
Dr. Frank Salmon Run 2002 Meritage – I picked this off the
menu at the Village Tavern looking to see what a nearly ten year old red from
the region had going on. This comes from the value label of Dr Frank and
something that folks might scoff at, but it performed admirably and was worth the
taste. It is still reasonably concentrated with aromas and flavors of cherry,
and a touch of dry soil. There were perceptible flavors of grape leaves or
greens and manageable oak. It wasn’t stunning and I don’t think it is as
delicate at this point as similar blends that are made with age mind. I don’t
have a lot of experience with wines that are 10 years or older (sad, but true)
so I can’t really say how much longer this wine could go, but it does feel like
is on the other side of peak.
Lamoreaux Landing 2008 76 West Meritage – This blend is one
where I think time is needed for it to reach more of its inherent potential. It
is a bit tight with subtle fruit and oak aromas, and clear understatement of
the berries and cherries in the mouth. It is balanced with softening tannins
and good acidity, thus my conclusion regarding the need for aging. Had I had
the time I might have let this breath a bit to see how that helped.
Damiani 2009 Pinot Noir – I had this twice in the span of
about an hour on the last day of my trip. I found it in a flight of Pinot Noirs
at the Red Newt Bistro and it intrigued me. Unfiltered and unfined it had some
wild and earthy aromas that made this wine geek giddy. Daminani was my very next
visit and I figured if this wine was my first impression there would be other interesting
wines to try. This is definitely a funky and unrefined Pinot with lots of
aromas and flavors that take some time to process. The tannins are present and
equally off the typical expectations.
Damiani Cabernet Blend – This wine is notable because when
opposed on both the varietal Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Francs, the blend
of both makes a lot of sense. The blend
is rounder, fruitier and more nuanced than either wine on its own. Red fruits
and some leafiness are finished dry. A
blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Cabernet Franc. I don’t know what the
vintage is or whether it is a cuvee blend, but I would suggest some cellar time
to see what happens nonetheless.
Hermann Wiemer 2008 Reserve Cabernet Franc – I tasted both
the 2008 and 2008 Reserve, finding the Reserve to be better balanced and softer
on the palate. The color was also a bit more concentrated as well. A
combination of blackberry, greens and earth composed the palate on this wine,
finished with some warmth and spice from the oak. The tannins are noticeable,
but softening. The finish is moderate and cleans up with a nice touch of
acidity.
( Ravines Wine Cellars )
Casual Drinkers /
Sweet Reds
These reds are a different breed, either because they are
sweet and highly drinkable and/or because they are promoted with casual drinking
in mind. At between $9 and $11 these wines have a good price/performance
ratio for a range of everyday consumption scenarios.
Six Mile Creek Dolce Vita – Leon Millot makes a second appearance
in the post, this time barrel aged and a bit sweet. This wine has dehydrated
fruit on the nose and in the mouth, a bit like raisins and dried raspberries.
The oak is present and helps bring it all together.
Dr. Frank Salmon Run Coho Red – This is a sweet Gamay blend,
something to get the conversation going and then not distract from it. The wine
isn’t refined or snooty, but pleasant and fruity with a clean finish.
Ravines Keuka Village Red – A blend of Cabernet Franc and
Noiret. This wine has a light nose, cherry and pepper in the mouth with a light
body and a clean finish. I wrote in my notes I wrote that this wine has range
and would be excellent with a variety of foods and friendly conversation.
Lamoreaux Landing Estate Red – Like the Ravines wine above,
this wine is dry but smooth and fruity with just enough acidity and tannins to
be pleasant to drink without requiring a lot of time for consideration.
What Else?
I didn’t find a plethora of varietal Cabernets that rocked
my world, and I hadn’t expected to. And in my opinion, neither should you. Not
as the rule anyway. Note that I didn’t highlight any in this post, but of
course I haven’t tried them all. There are exceptions, check for the reviews on
Shaw Vineyard, and when I ultimately have one that grabs me I’ll be sure to
review it. In the US we’ve grown so used to a particular style of Cabernet from
California and because of that we are woefully biased. Based on what I know that
type of Cabernet isn’t going to get made by wineries throughout the Finger
Lakes. If you have to have it you’ll have to look a bit, and that might just
mean you’ll appreciate it more when you do find it.
Experimentation with different varietals is ongoing in the
region. The Glenora Sangiovese was a surprise, and while the 2010 is young it
was drinking reasonably well. I wouldn’t compare it to a Chianti (which for the
record I DID NOT hear them say) but that is likely to be the comparison made to
the average tasting room visitor. I’m not sure where this experiment is going
to go, and I wonder if the grape and the wines made from it will survive as the
fish-out-of-water I perceive them to be in the Finger Lakes.
Glenora also gets a mention for their alternative packaging
in the form of the Astrapouch. Containing the equivalent of two standard bottles
of wine in a plastic pouch, this wine is mobile and doesn’t require an opener.
Once opened the wine will stay fresh for a short period of time (days to a week
is a safe bet), and is a great solution for taking your wine out by the pool without worrying about broken glass!
Current varieties include Chardonnay, a sweet Riesling and a sweet red.
The Final Analysis
There is enough going on in the Finger Lakes to satisfy all
but the most finicky of wine lovers, but a sense of adventure and a desire to
try new things is a requirement. Coming to the region with visions of comparing
the wines to those you might enjoy from France, Spain, Italy, Germany or
California is a bad idea, but many people will do it anyway. Some of the wines
will match up well, but it just isn’t the right approach. I sincerely hope
folks with that attitude don’t miss the exciting wines that you can find in
many of the places available to visit while in the region.
For me the whites were the star of the show, but the reds and wines
made from the hybrid grapes (both red and white) complete a picture of a place
that only needs time to become widely known for world-class wines all on its own.
Cheers!
Jason
