The Reds of the Finger Lakes

If you’ve been reading along over the last week or so you’d be sure I enjoyed my first trip to the Finger Lakes region earlier this month. The beauty of the lakes and the surrounding countryside is like few places I have ever been. All of the local folks we met were as casual and nice as those we often meet in Vermont and at home in New Hampshire. My wife and I didn’t specifically quest for food, but we did find excellent fare at the Red New Bistro, tasty & well prepared dishes at the Blue Pointe Grille and the House of Hong in Watkins Glen, as well as the Village Tavern in Hammondsport. But of course, we came for the wine!

I gave the Finger Lakes Rieslings specific treatment based on finding them to standout all their own. I followed that with a post containing a roundup of the Other White Wines from the Finger Lakes I found interesting, recommending whites from several producers and in several styles that tell more of the Finger Lakes story.

That leaves me to share my thoughts on the reds. I tried not to color my views of the Finger Lakes wines too much with research ahead of time, but there was only so much I could do. The Rieslings were not new to me, and the debate over which reds, if any, are really worthy of the effort in the region was also hard to miss. That said, I confidently expected that I would find red wines of interest to me and would have a firsthand opportunity to explore what was being made; drawing any conclusions that I could.

Best of the Best

Rooster Hill 2009 Estate Cabernet Franc – This wine is another solid youthful drinker. The nose came off as average in intensity with a nice mix of earth and greens. I picked up tart cherries, baking spices and a bit of vanilla on the palate. The tannins were coarse but not too aggressive. I bought a bought of this to specifically let it age to see how it mellows and improves.

Ravines 2008 Cabernet Franc – This wine is drinking good young, but should improve with age. I base this on the healthy acidity and softening tannins that wrap the cherries, greens and earthy notes of this wine. The oak is restrained and I picked up some cured meats or bacon essence as I continued to sip this wine.

Ravines 2007 Meritage – This wine is a delicate blend with red berries, spices and just enough oak to create the structure needed for it to please. The aromatics are mellow, but a good combination of fruit, earth and oak. The tannins are present and softening, hinting at solid aging potential. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot.

Red New 2008 Glacier Ridge Merlot – The first thing that grabbed me about this wine was the intensity of the color, it is deep and concentrated. The aromas followed on with lots of raspberry, cherry and whiffs of oak. The intensity of the color was matched by an incredible body. The mouth is rich with berries, a little meaty and finishes with velvety tannins. This wine is full bodied and bold in the friendliest of ways.

Heart & Hands 2009 Pinot Noir – We didn’t actually get to Heart & Hands on this trip, but I spotted the Pinot on the menu at the Red Newt Bistro and knew I had to try it. This is one of the smoothest Pinot Noirs I have ever tasted. The nose is pretty big, full of cherries, rose petal (maybe some other flowers too) and hints of a smoky camp fire. The mouth presents cherries, dried fruits and a little earth. The tannins are mild and very soft. I ordered several bottles of the available Pinots as soon as I got home.

Other Notable Juice

Six Mile Creek Quintessence 2009 – This wine presents warm oak in the nose, a deep, concentrated color and healthy aromas of red fruits. The flavors of black cherry, plum and blackberry are very pleasing, following with smooth tannins and a dry finish. This wine is drinking well young, but will likely benefit from cellar time. A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Keuka Lake Vineyards 2009 Leon Millot – I’ve had Millot more than a couple of times at tastings of wines from Vermont and New Hampshire. The cold-weather hardiness of the grape makes it a great option in those locations. The thing that grabbed me about this wine was the color. Dark, dark, dark is what I wrote in my notes. The second thing that grabbed me was the strength of the aromas. There was plum, dark cherry and blackberry bursting out of the glass. These flavors followed through in the mouth and were accented with currants and a dry, moderate length finish. This wine is immensely drinkable and coming from a less-than-standard grape helps with the diversity of the Finger Lakes wine story.

Heron Hill 2008 Reserve Blaufrankish – Blaufrankish, Lemberger, you pick the name. It really only matters if you identify with Austria or Germany more when it comes to this type of wine, but since I wasn’t in either place the style it is made in is subjective and in the hands of the producer for naming. The nose offered baking spices, violets and what I would say was unripe plum. In the mouth it was smooth and tasted of red fruits and a bit of earth.  It is well put together and interesting for the left hand turn it makes off the usual red wine road.

Dr. Frank Salmon Run 2002 Meritage – I picked this off the menu at the Village Tavern looking to see what a nearly ten year old red from the region had going on. This comes from the value label of Dr Frank and something that folks might scoff at, but it performed admirably and was worth the taste. It is still reasonably concentrated with aromas and flavors of cherry, and a touch of dry soil. There were perceptible flavors of grape leaves or greens and manageable oak. It wasn’t stunning and I don’t think it is as delicate at this point as similar blends that are made with age mind. I don’t have a lot of experience with wines that are 10 years or older (sad, but true) so I can’t really say how much longer this wine could go, but it does feel like is on the other side of peak.

Lamoreaux Landing 2008 76 West Meritage – This blend is one where I think time is needed for it to reach more of its inherent potential. It is a bit tight with subtle fruit and oak aromas, and clear understatement of the berries and cherries in the mouth. It is balanced with softening tannins and good acidity, thus my conclusion regarding the need for aging. Had I had the time I might have let this breath a bit to see how that helped.

Damiani 2009 Pinot Noir – I had this twice in the span of about an hour on the last day of my trip. I found it in a flight of Pinot Noirs at the Red Newt Bistro and it intrigued me. Unfiltered and unfined it had some wild and earthy aromas that made this wine geek giddy. Daminani was my very next visit and I figured if this wine was my first impression there would be other interesting wines to try. This is definitely a funky and unrefined Pinot with lots of aromas and flavors that take some time to process. The tannins are present and equally off the typical expectations.

Damiani Cabernet Blend – This wine is notable because when opposed on both the varietal Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Francs, the blend of both makes a lot of sense.  The blend is rounder, fruitier and more nuanced than either wine on its own. Red fruits and some leafiness are finished dry.  A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Cabernet Franc. I don’t know what the vintage is or whether it is a cuvee blend, but I would suggest some cellar time to see what happens nonetheless.

Hermann Wiemer 2008 Reserve Cabernet Franc – I tasted both the 2008 and 2008 Reserve, finding the Reserve to be better balanced and softer on the palate. The color was also a bit more concentrated as well. A combination of blackberry, greens and earth composed the palate on this wine, finished with some warmth and spice from the oak. The tannins are noticeable, but softening. The finish is moderate and cleans up with a nice touch of acidity.

( Ravines Wine Cellars )

Casual Drinkers / Sweet Reds

These reds are a different breed, either because they are sweet and highly drinkable and/or because they are promoted with casual drinking in mind. At between $9 and $11 these wines have a good price/performance ratio for a range of everyday consumption scenarios.

Six Mile Creek Dolce Vita – Leon Millot makes a second appearance in the post, this time barrel aged and a bit sweet. This wine has dehydrated fruit on the nose and in the mouth, a bit like raisins and dried raspberries. The oak is present and helps bring it all together.

Dr. Frank Salmon Run Coho Red – This is a sweet Gamay blend, something to get the conversation going and then not distract from it. The wine isn’t refined or snooty, but pleasant and fruity with a clean finish.

Ravines Keuka Village Red – A blend of Cabernet Franc and Noiret. This wine has a light nose, cherry and pepper in the mouth with a light body and a clean finish. I wrote in my notes I wrote that this wine has range and would be excellent with a variety of foods and friendly conversation.

Lamoreaux Landing Estate Red – Like the Ravines wine above, this wine is dry but smooth and fruity with just enough acidity and tannins to be pleasant to drink without requiring a lot of time for consideration.

What Else?

I didn’t find a plethora of varietal Cabernets that rocked my world, and I hadn’t expected to. And in my opinion, neither should you. Not as the rule anyway. Note that I didn’t highlight any in this post, but of course I haven’t tried them all. There are exceptions, check for the reviews on Shaw Vineyard, and when I ultimately have one that grabs me I’ll be sure to review it. In the US we’ve grown so used to a particular style of Cabernet from California and because of that we are woefully biased. Based on what I know that type of Cabernet isn’t going to get made by wineries throughout the Finger Lakes. If you have to have it you’ll have to look a bit, and that might just mean you’ll appreciate it more when you do find it.

Experimentation with different varietals is ongoing in the region. The Glenora Sangiovese was a surprise, and while the 2010 is young it was drinking reasonably well. I wouldn’t compare it to a Chianti (which for the record I DID NOT hear them say) but that is likely to be the comparison made to the average tasting room visitor. I’m not sure where this experiment is going to go, and I wonder if the grape and the wines made from it will survive as the fish-out-of-water I perceive them to be in the Finger Lakes.

Glenora also gets a mention for their alternative packaging in the form of the Astrapouch. Containing the equivalent of two standard bottles of wine in a plastic pouch, this wine is mobile and doesn’t require an opener. Once opened the wine will stay fresh for a short period of time (days to a week is a safe bet), and is a great solution for taking your wine out by the pool without worrying about broken glass! Current varieties include Chardonnay, a sweet Riesling and a sweet red.

The Final Analysis

There is enough going on in the Finger Lakes to satisfy all but the most finicky of wine lovers, but a sense of adventure and a desire to try new things is a requirement. Coming to the region with visions of comparing the wines to those you might enjoy from France, Spain, Italy, Germany or California is a bad idea, but many people will do it anyway. Some of the wines will match up well, but it just isn’t the right approach. I sincerely hope folks with that attitude don’t miss the exciting wines that you can find in many of the places available to visit while in the region.

For me the whites were the star of the show, but the reds and wines made from the hybrid grapes (both red and white) complete a picture of a place that only needs time to become widely known for world-class wines all on its own.

Cheers!

Jason

Saying Goodbye to the 2011 Summer of Riesling

Final Summer of Riesling Thoughts & Link Roundup

My Summer of Riesling started right after my return from the Wine Bloggers Conference in Virginia in July. Once or twice a week I tasted, paired and shared Rieslings from all over. I tasted products from Europe, the US West Coast and several local/regional wines that came from Idaho, Ohio, Michigan, Connecticut, New York and New Hampshire.

I had hoped to finish up this week with an Ice Wine from Inniskillin but the box contained the wrong product, an Ice Wine made from Vidal instead! Not to worry, I slotted in the last bottle of a Riesling Ice Wine style wine I made in 2009. It has been a year since I had had some and it was improved once again. Intensely sweet with good acid to balance, the concentrated fruit flavors are wrapped with something I have always said was a little wild. I’m sad to see it gone, but it did make for a sweet finish.

I didn’t complete my regional quest either, and did not source Rieslings from VT, ME, RI and MA. I’ll get back to this eventually.

A few wine tasting notes never made it into any of the posts included:

Trimbach 2007 Riesling – I found this wine to be a bit too dry, maybe losing something with age. It still tasted good flavor-wise, but was more dry than I had recalled from prior tastings.

Chamard 2011 Riesling – the fruit was sourced from the Finger Lakes in 2010 for their first ever Riesling. It had the signature minerality in the nose with peach, green apple and citrus in the nose and mouth. It was refreshing but might have suffered from a lack of acid. From Connecticut.

Here is a link round-up of all of my Summer of Riesling posts:

• Kicking Off the Summer of Riesling
• Summer of Riesling Summer Party
• Everyday Rieslings to Celebrate the Summer of Riesling
• Two for Dessert – Summer of Riesling
• Chicken & Squash Curry with Riesling
• Taste of the Other 46 for the Summer of Riesling
• Summer of Riesling Pairing – Chilean Sea Bass
• Finger Lakes Riesling

Riesling Hour Tasting Notes

Last night I participated in the Riesling Hour event to usher in the 2010 Rieslings from the Finger Lakes region. I received a selection of six wines from the 30 participating wineries. One of the most interesting things that came out of my participation in the event was the sharing of thoughts on wines with others who received something different. I think it enhanced the conversation. I opened 4 of the bottles, leaving two I had on my recent trip in the cellar for another day. Two were dry, one was semi-dry and one was medium-sweet.

Anthony Road 2010 Dry – I ran out of time on my trip and didn’t end up getting to Anthony Road so I was very excited to get this bottle for the Twitter tasting. I found intense minerality in the nose with some wet stone & citrus on the palate. I also got hints of green apple and melon rind. I didn’t find this wine to be as good others I recently tried and was left wondering if the 2010 vintage was a bad first taste. I’ll be returning to the region soon and Anthony Road is on my list to visit.

Swedish Hill 2010 Dry – Orange and wet stone aromas. Hints of sweetness in the nose, although it drinks dry. Peach with a bit of tropicality on the palate. The acidity was pretty healthy and made me think of some of the 2009’s recently tasted. This was my favorite of the night.

Atwater Semi-Dry 2010 – The nose on this wine was the most pronounced of the four I tasted. Peaches and tropical fruits were clear and big. The flavors were consistent. This wine drinks sweet, but the finish has a drying quality to it that buffered the sweetness very well. At 10.8% ABV this wine could be a dangerous casual drinker!

Lakewood Medium-Sweet2010 – Saving the sweetest for last my palate was primed for something with a bit more sugar. I picked up pear and citrus both in nose and mouth. The wine is sweet, but again has enough acidity to prevent it from tasting flat or too sweet.

Digging Deeper into the Finger Lakes Riesling Story

During the Riesling Hour TweetChat Richard Auffrey, aka thePassionate Foodie (@RichardPF), asked a characteristically probing question, and one that got me thinking. The question was:

"What does #FLXWine Riesling offer, if anything, that you cannot find in Alsatian/German Rieslings? #RieslingHour"

There was a bit of protest about the comparison being made in the question, and I get that. The Finger Lakes isn’t Germany. But what if the question isn’t meant in a punitive or negative way? I defend the question with the idea that digging a little deeper is the hallmark of best writers in this business. Richard consistently demonstrates this, giving me and others something to aspire to.

Austria, France and Germany are the gold standard for Riesling in the world and have a long history backing up their wines. Most winemakers of Riesling know this and inevitably use the examples from these countries as guide, consciously or not.

This is not an easy question to answer because most of the assertions I came up with are of subjective value. There is no discrete answer.

Here’s my opinion on what the Finger Lakes Rieslings offer and why we should pay attention:

1. For a young winemaking region a lot has been accomplished in 50 years. The quality presented today is at a premium to the time required to get there, and is only increasing. More time equals more quality, and the best producers are rising to the top.
2. The very best Rieslings from the Finger Lakes rival the quality of some of the foreign competition. I said some, and the low quality stuff is easy to beat. This isn’t apples to apples so this comparison breaks down easily. But give it time.
3. It is a domestic product so we get to wave the stars and stripes when we drink it. Some people don’t care about this, but I do. In my experience the Rieslings from the Finger Lakes are better than all of the cheap, high-volume domestic offerings I’ve tasted so we’ve got a gem here to promote.
4. It’s a local/regional product for many consumers whose patronage supports small American businesses. Being local can also mean it is greener because it has to travel shorter distances to get to a happy consumer. Because of the increasing quality there is the two-for-one benefit of supporting the small businesses AND getting a great drink! I try to drink local in New England and with greater diversity in quality it isn’t as easy for me to get that same benefit. I felt it firsthand on a recent trip to the Finger Lakes and it got me jazzed up!

I look forward to other opinions on this topic, I am sure I will learn something!

Recent Finger Lakes Posts from Blogging Friends

The 2010 Finger Lakes Rieslings Have Been Released – LifeOfVines blog by Marie Payton

Riesling Hour – 2010 Finger Lakes Rieslings – WiningWays blog by Lorie Perrone

What to Know About 2010 Finger Lakes Rieslings – New York Cork Report by Evan Dawson

Welcoming the New Season

With summer behind us Riesling won’t be as frequent of a friend in my blog as it has been, but only because there is room here for everyone!

Upcoming highlights include two Harvest & Pumpkin beer shootouts, an all New England wine tasting and food & wine pairings befitting the cooler weather.

Cheers!

Jason

Disclosure of Material Connection: I received one or more of the products or services mentioned above for free in the hope that I would mention it on my blog. Regardless, I only recommend products or services I use personally and believe will be good for my readers. I am disclosing this in accordance with the Federal Trade Commission’s 16 CFR, Part 255: “Guides Concerning the Use of Endorsements and Testimonials in Advertising.”

Finger Lakes – Other Whites

In my previous post on the Finger Lakes I focused solely onRiesling. While Riesling is the star of the show in the region in my opinion, I enjoyed several other whites; some of which that are likewise not to be missed. As I did in the Riesling post I will review the highlights of the 25+ non-Riesling whites I tasted.  There was a bit more variability in the non-Riesling white wines and not all producers had other white wines that were as attention-worthy as the Rieslings they poured.

Singling Out Gewurztraminer

My wine drinking friends know I love an ebullient and aromatic Gewurz so I was hoping to give it as much attention as I could on the trip. I tasted it in as many places as I could, and was not disappointed.

Dr Frank 2009 Reserve Gewurztraminer – this was my favorite Gewurz on the trip. Why? Balance. The wine is semi-dry so in order for it to be enjoyable it has to have the right amount of acidity to buffer the sugar. And it does. Add the huge floral nose and you’ve got a winner! The fruit in the mouth follows through all they along the moderate to long finish, extending the enjoyment.

Rooster Hill 2010 Estate Gewurztraminer – This wine was very simply assembled. Moderate nose with some minerality, peach & bit of exotic fruits and a tart finish. Understatement can be an asset .

Red Newt 2007 Sawmill Creek Gewurztraminer – The refinement offered by this wine started with the nose. Flowers and spices rose from the glass. It smells sweet, but drinks dry. It tasted like spicy oranges.

Damiani 2009 Gewurztraminer – this was the first one I tried where I could pick up the lychee flavor that is often spoken of with Gewurz. It had a bit of spice and a nice long finish.

Hermann Wiemer 2010 Gewurztraminer – The abundant flowers in the nose and peach in the mouth made this wine a great sip. It is a bit sweet, but in balance and well worth the time.

Chardonnay Does Well Too

Before I hit ground in the region I was educated enough to know that Riesling and Gewurztraminer were going to get my attention, but I hadn’t looked deep enough to know what to expect from Chardonnay. From the few I had it is clear that the winemakers with a strong passion for making quality Rieslings are equally capable of producing a quality Chardonnay as well. There were both oaked and un-oaked styles that are worth mention.

Ravines 2008 Chardonnay – This was my favorite of the Chardonnay’s I tasted. Twenty percent of the grapes were dehydrated using the appassimento method, some amount of MLF was executed and part of it saw oak. This resulted in a nice blend of melon, peach, fig, citrus, baking spices and warm toasty oak. The body was moderate to full with a nice long finish. This wine is very elegant and enveloping.

Heron Hill Ingle Vineyard 2009 Chardonnay – this wine is un-oaked with a moderate nose. It is very clean and crisp, with flavors of tart apple, citrus. It is dry, but not bone dry so the perception of a bit of body is there.

Lamoreaux Landing 2008 Chardonnay – for an oaked Chardonnay it comes off much lighter than you might expect, but not to its detriment. The combination of spices, buttered toast, fresh herbs and the lime finish was very interesting.

Hermann Wiemer 2010 Chardonnay – this wine had the most complex palate of all the Chards I tasted. It wasn’t the best, the balance wasn’t as good, but being young I was left to wonder what it would taste like in a year. Take note of that for your next visit. Un-oaked.

Best from the Hybrid Grapes

Keuka Lake Vineyards 2010 Gently Dry Vignoles – From my experience in New England Vignoles comes medium-sweet or sweet and while the wines like that I’ve had were good, I always wondered if a dry style would perform. This one does. The nose is full of fruit and flowers, there is pineapple and orange in the mouth with a dry, citrus driven finish. You could easily mistake (not a bad thing) this wine for other aromatic wines like Riesling or Gewurztraminer. KLV was also pouring the 2010 Turkey Run Vignoles which was much more subtle on the nose, but otherwise quite similar.

Six Mile Creek 2010 Seyval Blanc – this wine was notable for because of the huge fruity nose and healthy acidity. It was crisp, focused and clean with a nice hit of citrus on the way out. Seyval shows up quite a bit in New England where I think it is done well. This wine wasn’t quite the performer as my favorite from Jewell Town in South Hampton, NH, but we weren’t in NH, were we?

Other Notable Wines

Keuka Lake Vineyards 2010 White – This is the first year for a white blend from KLV and when presented as a straightforward socializing wine at a good price, I had to mention it. Made from 2/3 Riesling and 1/3 Vignoles, there was enough complexity in both the nose and mouth for me to savor it a bit. Margot said it had a “candle scent” type nose because of how forward it was.

Dr Frank 2010 Gruner – I mention this wine because it was a surprise. I hadn’t heard much about experimentation with Gruner in the Finger Lakes and didn’t see it anywhere else I went. I picked up lime and melon in the mouth and some of that signature white pepper the style can be known for.

Red Newt 2007 Pinot Gris – This wine was vexing and pleasing all at the same time. The combination of peach and spices in the nose led to an unusual substance in the body and a spicy flavor that followed through on the finish. I need to return to this wine to study it more.

Hermann Wiemer Late Harvest Chardonnay – Using Chard for a late harvest wine isn’t the norm, so I had to try it. I found it to be restrained with an exceptional balance. At 9.8% RS it has plenty of sugar, but it also has the acidity to tame it to a manageable place. This wine is nuanced, but not aggressive. Bought some!

Rooster Hill 2009 Late Harvest Vignoles – This dessert wine really brings it home. Fig, honey and caramel in liquid form! There was something in the nose I couldn’t define and that elusiveness added to the enjoyment.

What Does it Mean?

Clearly there is a great range of white wines made in the Finger Lakes. Those winemakers who are committed to making high-quality wines are clearly adept at making them from a variety of grapes and in different styles. There is something there for everyone.

Next time I will share my thoughts on the red wines I tasted. There was great Pinot, an exceptional Merlot and several distinctive Cabernent Francs.

Cheers!

Jason

Finger Lakes Riesling

For my celebrations of the 2011 Summer of Riesling I included several Finger Lakes selections. There were a couple of motivations for this. First off a regional source supports drinking local, a renewed passion of mine. Secondly, I would be capping off my exploration of Riesling with a visit to the Finger Lakes in September, and I wanted to do a little homework beforehand.

The first three Finger Lakes Rieslings I tasted this summer were the Salmon Run 2010 Dry Riesling from Dr. Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars and the Reserve 2009 & Semi-Sweet 2008 from the Six Mile Creek. I wrote about the Salmon Run wine in my Summer of Riesling Kick-Off where I also listed all the wines and plans I had for the remainder of the summer. As part of my homework I sourced a range of wines from Six Mile Creek to get more familiar with what is going in the Ithaca area where the WineMaker Magazine Conference will be held in 2012. My reviews of those wines are available in the post Six From Six. Both the Salmon Run and Six Mile Creek offerings made a second appearance at our Summer of Riesling Party where we held an Other 47 blind tasting of Riesling.

I also enjoyed a Dr. Frank 2010 Semi-Dry Riesling in a flight with a dry Riesling from Sharpe Hill in Connecticut and a Late Harvest style Riesling from Grand Traverse in Michigan. Contrasting those three styles next to each other was very interesting! 

My impression from both the dry and sweet styles is that the wines are very aromatic, fruity with plentiful minerality and acid that keeps the wines fresh and crisp. With such a limited tasting I couldn’t conclude anything else, except that I enjoyed the wines and would be looking forward to trying more when I visited.

I will be finishing my Summer of Riesling celebrations this week with a couple of activities. First off, I saved a bottle of Inniskillin Riesling Ice Wine for my final review, a sweet finish to be sure. On Thursday I will be participating in the Riesling Hour virtual tasting, an event held to ring in the 2010 vintage of Finger Lakes Riesling. The sample wines I received for that event included a few I tasted while on my trip, reviewed here, and several wines that are new to me. The added depth from the new selections means that I will have surveyed more than 20 different Rieslings from the region this summer, giving me a good foundation to confirm the prevailing wisdom that Riesling is done very well and is the signature wine from the Finger Lakes.

You can find semi-sweet, late harvest and iced style Rieslings in the Finger Lakes, and while there is nothing wrong with those styles (the late harvest can be divine), the dry Rieslings are the wines that show the most finesse.

Why does Riesling do so well in the Finger Lakes? In my post where I shared what I’ve learned about the region at-large, About the Finger Lakes, the geologic, weather and micro-climactic forces that make the region what it is were broadly presented. These forces are part of the reason. The other part is the people, and specifically people with experience from some of the great Riesling-making regions of the world who came to the Finger Lakes and have demonstrated what is possible with the grape. Their experience has helped others experiment and learn with similar results.

The Rieslings tasted on the trip that can be broken down categorically by dryness with the following stats:

• Dry - 13
• Semi-Dry - 6
• Late  Harvest/Dessert – 1

The producers included  - Damiani, Dr. Konstantin Frank, Glenora, Hermann Wiemer, Heron Hill, Keuka LakeVineyards,  Lamaoreaux Landing, Ravines Wine Cellars, Red Newt Winery, Rooster Hill and Six Mile Creek

Overall the wines were sound with no obvious flaws. I would drink all of these wines again and would recommend visitors to the region seek them out for the firsthand experience. One specific experience tasters should plan on trying is contrasting the same producer in difference vintages and from different vineyard parcels. There will be variation for a number of reasons and experiencing them adds depth to your understand what is possible.

Best of the Best

Hermann Weimer 2010 Dry – this wine presented stone fruits and citrus in the nose with the same flavors coming through on the palate. The hints of grapefruit on the finish accentuate the healthy, but balanced acidity of the wine. Everything about this wine was clean and focused, making it shine.

Rooster Hill 2010 Med. Sweet – The golden plum that came through in the nose on this wine was very specific and pleasant. The hints of gravel and petrol that accented the plum were in just the right place. I picked up baked apple, and peach in the mouth with citrus coming in for the finish. This was the one I felt had the broadest aroma and flavor palate, offering lots of things to discover in each sip.

Ravines 2009 Dry – This was the wine where I felt finesse through understatement was best demonstrated. There was peach in both the nose and mouth, perceptible minerality and a tart, clean finish.  Calling this wine simple is totally unfair, and subtle and aloof convey more of connotations I am going for. If I were going to pick one of the Rieslings I tasted to have on hand all the time, this would be it. Why? Because its finesse and subtlety make it useful in the widest possible circumstances, a necessary attribute in a house wine.

Most Notable Single Vineyard Bottling

Heron Hill Ingle Vineyard 2008 – grape growers and winemakers in the Finger Lakes region manage a patchwork of vineyards that lend significant and demonstrable differences in the final product. When a specific source is found to be particularly interesting and is used to produce a wine, the result can be so much more than if the same fruit were blended in with others.  The Ingle Vineyard 2008 Riesling tasted like applesauce! With 1.64% residual sugar it has just enough sweetness to accentuate the apple and spice. A bit of minerality and petrol in the nose balanced all the other facets to create a beautiful single vineyard Riesling.

Notable Vintage and Parcel Differences

Glenora 2009 Dry Riesling versus the 2010 Dry Riesling. I found the 2010 to be signinifcantly more vibrant, aromatic and flavorful than the 2009. Hearing that the growing season for the Finger Lakes in 2010 was the warmest ever and that there had been mounting expectations for the wines made from it, this would be a consistent finding.

Keuka Lake Vineyards Evergreen Lek vs. Falling Man Vineyards. The Evergreen Lek wine had mild aromas and a lime driven finish. Opposing that, the Falling Man wine presented aromatics of unripe peach and had a bit of funk to offer as well. Both wines offered juicy acidity and pleasant palate. With a finish also driven with citrus, but not so much lime, the Falling Man selection was the better balanced of the two, offering a nose and palate that complimented each other best.

Other Highlights

Tierce Riesling – this collaboration between Red Newt (where we tasted it), Fox Run and Anthony Road is a great example of companies who are technically competitors joining forces to combine the best each has to offer and take it higher.  The wine had a pleasant balance of peach & citrus, minerality and high, but refreshing acid. Products like this are largely unheard of in other regions. May this be the beginning of a new era in wine!

Beautiful locations to sip a Riesling - I was taken with the views from the tasting rooms of Dr. Frank, Heron Hill and Damiani. A common thread was floor to ceiling (or close to it) windows looking out over the adjacent property, vines and ultimately the lake. The vines that were full of vigor and fruit at Dr. Frank’s made for a particularly beautiful vista. Wine is very much about a place as many wine-knowledgeable people know, and where you taste is absolutely part of it.

Producers We Missed on This Trip

Anthony Road Winery – having taken the Governor’s Cup for their 2008 Dry Riesling this is one missed visit that I will be sure to right on my next soon to be planned trip. Adding a component to the Tierce Riesling is yet another attractive draw.

Fox Run Vineyards – collaborating on the Tierce Riesling is all I need to know to have this stop on the itinerary for next time. Good wines, a good story and a passion for collaboration to grow the esteem of the region vote high in my book.

Conclusions

My conclusions are simple. Go to the Finger Lakes, try the Rieslings and then reflect on what more the experience tells you about the place and its people. You won’t be disappointed, and you won’t be able to hesitate telling others to follow in you footsteps. There are plenty of other wines that are worthy of your time, and I will be sharing those here real soon, but the Rieslings define the region.

Cheers!

Jason

About the Finger Lakes

We here at the Ancient Fire Wine Blog visited the Finger Lakes Region of New York State for the first time ever this month. We learned a few things about the region before we went and during our visit, which we believe will help others understand this unique place.

( Available from Wikimedia Commons ) 

Geological Formations

As it is with most wine grape growing regions around the world the unique geologic history of the area left behind artifacts that contributed to what is now special about the place. The Finger Lakes region of New York State as we know it today was transformed by glaciers beginning about 2 million years ago. The glaciers changed what were a series of north flowing rivers (towards Lake Ontario) into long thin lakes. As the glaciers advanced and retreated the river valleys were widened and deepened to create the lakes we see today. After the final glacial retreat deposits of shale, siltstone, clay-rich limestone beds and glacial wash were left behind in a variety of configurations in the region. These soils and rocks created a variety of conditions affecting much in the area, including agriculture and of course grape growing. With experience it has been found that some grape varieties prefer the glacial gifts more than others.

The Microclimates

On top of what was bestowed in the soils by the glaciers, the lakes themselves provide another unique element that form a series of microclimates around the lakes. The depth of the lakes means they rarely freeze and the relative warmth of the lakes compared to the air in winter and the cooling affects in the summer help to moderate the temperature of the lakeside vineyards. There are pockets of specific climates that see unique warming, cooling, drainage and air flow throughout the region. The best vineyardists are able to recognize and exploit these situations to the benefit of the wines made from the grapes.

The overall weather in the region covers a broad range and is unpredictable. Snow and bitter temperatures in the winter share the same location with intense heat and humidity in the summer. Anytime from February to November can see a “rainy season” with the timing of the rains source of constant concern. This has proven that even the most experienced and resourceful grape growers must be their own local weatherman, constantly looking at the sky and feeling the vibe in the vineyard. This is no easy job!

History

While there is evidence of pre-Iroquois civilization in the region, much of what we know about the area from pre-Colonial and Colonial times comes via the Five Nations of Iroquois  (Cayuga, Mohawk, Oneida, Onondaga and Seneca) from which the names of the lakes and rivers in the regions were derived.

Unfortunately the Iroquois largely sided with the British during the American Revolution which led to them being driven from their home in the Fingers Lakes region by Continental Army. After the revolution large swaths of land in the area were given to war veterans with the native Americans finding themselves isolated to reservations. The new settlers colonized the area creating many of the places and traditions we experience there today.

From there a rich history evolved with highlights such the creation of Cornell University in 1865 and the birth of the women’s suffrage movement in Seneca Falls in the early 20^th century. More recently the Finger Lakes has secured a place as an outdoor recreation and vacation destination that many people enjoy.

Travel & Tourism

With rich natural beauty in the mountains, rivers and lakes the region has become a destination for outdoor enthusiasts. The growth of the winemaking industry, museums, shopping, golf and motor sports in addition to the boating, fishing and hiking popular in the area means interest in visiting draws people from all corners of the world.

With three formally organized wine trails on Cayuga, Seneca and Keuka lakes, finding the region’s wines is easy and fun. A variety of travel, tourism and wine trail organizations have extensive online information to help visitors from outside the region plan trips that include a rich mix of the activities available. You can find links in the reference section below for more information.

Wine History

And finally to the wine. For the Ancient Fire Wine Blog to take this long in a post to get to the wine is rare, but we felt it was necessary to share what we recently (and newly) learned about the region with our readers. It is a unique and beautiful place and knowing a bit about it before you delve into the wine does help you appreciate it when you do.

And we are going to make you wait even longer for reviews. In this, the last section of the post, we will get you current on the origin of the winemaking in the region and will return starting next week with reviews of where we visited and the wines we recommend people source and try.

Wine in the Finger Lakes region has its first documented history with sacramental wine in Hammondsport in the early 1800’s. Later that century two winemaking companies garnered world-wide attention for their sparkling wines. By 1900 the region had 25,000 acres under vine.

Prohibition, phylloxera and West Coast competition created problems in the 20^th century and interest in wines NOT made from the locally hardy native-American grape varieties kept interest in the region’s wines very low well into the 1900’s.

What happened next is where the magical story of the modern epoch of Finger Lakes wines starts. In the early 1950’s a Ukranian immigrant named Dr. Konstantin Frank took work at the Geneva Experiment Station of Cornell University on the northwest corner of Seneca Lake. With experience growing vinifera grapes (noble and well known grape types) in harsh climates he was part of the spark that modernized the winemaking in the region. Within a decade his experience and adamant professions about growing vinifera, experiencing much ridicule of course, were proven with the launch of Vinifera Wine Cellars in Hammondsport. Dr. Frank’s wines are known worldwide and the winery is consistently held out as the source of some of the finest the Finger Lakes wine available.

Soon others came from Europe and myriad domestic locations looking to harness the unique geology and climate to make wine.  As of this writing there are over 100 wineries in the region with new operations coming online each year.

Wine is made for many reasons in the Finger Lakes, from true passion for making great wine, a commitment to local agriculture and stewardship of the land, to retirement projects and finally savvy business people using the travel and tourism industry to draw consumers. What does that mean for the quality of the wines you might find? Simply put, it’s all over the place.

The focus of the region is on aromatic whites like Riesling and Gewurztraminer, and rightfully so. These two grapes are a good fit for the soil and climate mitigating some of the uphill battle winemakers experience when trying to coax grapes into wine. And the wines are exciting to smell and taste! Our reviews of these wines will be the ones you will want to pay the closest attention to. Missing the greatest examples of these wines when in the region should be a criminal offense!

There are also bright spots for red wines, but with much less consistency than the whites. There is a vibrant conversation going on amongst the grape growers and winemakers about red wines and their place in the region, which is a very good thing. Just like what I found on my recent trip to Virginia, I didn’t find lots of distinction across the range of red wines, but do have reviews that represent some as real standouts.

There are also wines made from the native and hybrid grapes of the earlier eras, local fruits and grapes that may not be well suited for the place. Some winemakers eschew the native & hybrid grapes entirely, while others believe some plots produce good grapes and wines that are pleasant and worth the time. Use of the local fruits and “fish out of water” grapes are spiced in everywhere with similar motivations.  We tried several of all of these types of wines and I don’t disagree with their existence in theory. Our reviews will help you navigate the morass created here.

Until Next Time

Now that you know a little more about the region, are you thirsty? I know I am, and I was just there! Next week we will begin sharing our winery visits, reviews and pictures from this beautiful place that is calling to us all.

Cheers!

Jason

References

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Finger_Lakes

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Finger_Lakes_AVA

http://www.fingerlakes.org/

http://www.fingerlakes.com/

http://www.fingerlakeswinecountry.com/

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Fingerlakesmap.png

Local Spotlight – Moat Mountain Belgian Style Tripel

This is only the second time I've mentioned the Moat Mountain Brewery in my blog, and that’s because you can’t get their beers everywhere. But then again if you could, they might not be the hidden gem I have found them to be. They are local, North Conway, NH, and at least one of the nearby craft beer shops nearby does carry their beers. My first taste was at the 2010 New Brewers Festival where I had their cask drawn Imperial Stout. That beer is a serious drink and coming from a cask where it is still living and fresh made it a real treat.

This week for my Local Spotlight I chilled down a bomber (22 oz bottle) of Moat Mountain Belgian Style Tripel for some thoughtful consideration. I actually picked up this bottle at Downeast Beverage Company in Portland, ME during my recent One Day Scavenger Hunt for food and drink.

The beer pours an orange/gold color with an off-white head that doesn’t stick around too long. The beer sounded crisp when I poured it. The nose is pretty big and full of spice and yeast aromas. The nose definitely locks this beer into the style correctly. In the mouth the beer is malty and a bit sweet but finishes very crisp with hints of hops and fruit along the way. This is a full bodied beer and although the finish is short, it is flavorful and clean.

As I drank the beer I hit the web to find out more about Moat Mountain. Moat Mountain was started by Stephan Johnson, a Johnson & Wales alum and restaurateur in Portland, ME area. In the late 1990’s he acquired the Scottish Lion Inn property and set about executing his vision for Moat Mountain which would include a brewery, restaurant and inn. Since officially opening in 2000 Moat Mountain has received acclaim from Yankee Magazine and is seeing positive reviews at TripAdvisor.com.

Moat Mountain brews year round with consistent offerings that includes a Weiss, Pilsner, Pale Ale, Brown Ale and a Stout. Their seasonal and limited availability brews range from the Tripel I am tasting now to a Mai Bock, to a Lager and a Blueberry Wheat Ale, just to name a few.

The last time I was in the Conway area was over the 2010 Christmas holiday and the brewery was not open on the one day I had some time to make a trip. I also couldn’t find any of the beers in local Conway stores (the ones that were open) so I hadn’t had it in almost a year. I certainly need to plan a trip sometime soon because this beer is making me really happy!

Cheers!

Jason

Summer of Riesling Pairing – Chilean Sea Bass & Chateau Ste. Michelle Dry Riesling

The 2011 Summer of Riesling is winding down, but I’m not quite finished yet! This week I paired the Chateau Ste. Michelle (CSM) 2009 Dry Riesling with a pan roasted Chilean Sea Bass for some late-summer magic.

Dry Rieslings are very versatile wines, pairing well with a wide range of flavors and textures. Without the sugar of their more casual drinking oriented peers these wines are easy partners with savory dishes that don’t go too heavy on sauces or earthy flavors. I wouldn’t try to put a dry Riesling up against a steak or pasta dishes with lots of red sauce, but I would go out on a limb with spices, white wine braises, salads and as I did this week, fish.

I had never had the Chateau Ste. Michelle Dry Riesling before opposed to being no stranger to their sweeter wines. The standard CSM off-dry Columbia Valley Riesling is the first wine that both my wife and I can remember drinking together who knows how many years ago! We visited CSM in 2010 during our extended trip out west for the WineMaker Magazine conference in Stevenson, WA. Moving beyond the Rieslings we found single vineyard gems like the Wahluke Slope Syrah and the Canoe Ridge Merlots, including the Ethos Reserve Merlot that really knocked my socks off. I’ve enjoyed both the Indian Wells Cabernet and Eroica Riesling several times, and highly recommend all of these wines if you want to see what CSM brings to the table as a winery.

The wine pours a light gold color and brilliantly clear. It offers up peach and tropical notes in the nose, with a hint of petrol to round it out. In the mouth I picked up much more peach and citrus, with the citrus riding along for the finish. I did experience some sulfur aromatics during a few sips, but it wasn’t consistent. The wine is nearly dry with 0.76% residual sugar so just a touch of sweetness comes through if you focus on it.

Preparing Chilean Sea Bass at home was another first for me. This could also be the first time I have ever had it as well, but I can’t specifically remember whether I have had it or not, so I won’t make that claim.

The preparation of the fish was dreadfully simple. I started by slicing half of a white onion, half of a red pepper and thinly slicing two small garlic cloves.  I also preheated the oven to 450 degrees. The veggies were sautéed in an oil coated pan just until they began to wilt. I deglazed the pan with dry sherry and then added vegetable stock, salt and pepper, cooking it until it thickened. While the sauce thickened I heated a cast iron skillet over medium high heat with a tablespoon of oil until it just started to smoke. I salted and peppered the clean fish and placed it in the skilled skin side down for 4 minutes. After four minutes I flipped it, allowing it to sear for 1 minute longer. I then transferred it to the hot oven for about 2 minutes until the fish was a healthy golden brown. To serve the fish I placed half of the vegetable mixture on each of two plates, laying ½ of the fish on top of the vegetables. I light dusting of salt and pepper is all that was required to season it to taste.

The fish melted in my mouth like butter and the nuance from the sherry and stock in the vegetables was a killer combination. The wine accented this dish with the fruit flavors and a touch of acid to make everything pop. I honestly believe this is one of the best food and wine pairings I have ever executed, one I will look forward to repeating and riffing on in time.

Next week brings the end of this ride for 2011, but not without some renewal . On Wednesday I am going to taste and share the Inniskillin Riesling Ice wine for my sweet finish. I’ve had this wine before and drool every time I think about having it again. On Thursday I am going to participate in the Riesling Hour virtual event which heralds the arrival of the 2010 vintage of Finger Lakes Riesling. Having just returned from the Finger Lakes I have several 2010 bottles to choose from when I go to raise my glass!

Cheers!

Jason

Six Rosés for Summer

With the official end of summer a little less than three weeks away, folks in cool climates are packing in as many warm-weather activities into each day as possible. Most wine drinkers associate Rosé wines with summer, and while I generally agree, I think their value as aperitif and conversational wines for all seasons is grossly understated.

Nonetheless, I will review them as a last vestige of my 2011 summer when the days are hot and the nights are just beginning to cool, providing plenty of pleasant, relaxing evenings for smooth jazz and crisp wines.

TastingRoom.com provides some interesting flights in tasting size bottles. It’s a novelty and not a great choice on an environmental basis, but the opportunity to taste six new wines in one shot is pretty compelling.

Kelly & Young 2010 “Kathleen Rose” Rosé

This wine smells like a light red wine, not a rosé. Flavors or strawberry and dry island fruits come across on the palate with a bit of citrus on the finish. This wine is dry but with a moderate body such that the fruit comes across just this side of dry. The tasting notes describe this wine as Meritage blend made in a

rosé style, a first for me. The nose presenting itself as a lighter red wine makes a lot of sense with this knowledge.

Swanson 2010 Rosato

From the first sniff I picked up melon and flowers. I also picked up hints of wild yeast and minerality in the nose. This wine tastes like dried rose petals with a dry, focused mid-palate with a bit of spice through the finish. The color of this wine is much like my own Strawberry wine, with a shift to orange from pink and red. This wasn’t the first Sangiovese-based Rosé I have had, but definitely the best.

Blackbird 2010 Arriviste Rosé

The prominent class of aroma for this wine would be grape leaves and greens. Cherry and pear flavors come through on the palate. This was the most brilliantly clear of all six wines with a very pink color, that required a second look.

Dry Creek Vineyard 2010 “Petite Zin” Rosé

As opposed to the previous wine this wine had a purple/pink color with a much darker tone to it. The aroma of currants fills the nose. This is a very full bodied rose with a spiciness to it that is impossible to miss. It is dry with a moderate length finish. Made from Zinfandel grapes.

Carol Shelton 2010 “Rendezvous” Rosé

The nose of this wine has a savory element to it, and I finally seized on herbs, but can’t be sure that is really it. The wine is medium-dry, very flavorful with a moderate to full body. The fruit flavors in this wine are very tart which made me think of cranberry and very tart citrus fruits. Made from the juice bled from Carignane grapes not long after crush.

L’Aventure 2010 Estate Rose

The color on this wine was a step down from the previous wines. The nose is full of greens and herbs. It is medium dry with tart fruits like melon and unripe peach. Made from a blend of Syrah and Cabernet.

After tasting all of these wines I was left wondering why we really only focus on this style during the warm weather. The range of wines presented in the sampler kit offers considerable nuance and distinction within the Rosé style allowing for plenty of thoughtful consumption, and at any time of year. Using these as cocktail wines or icebreakers seems like a slam dunk with the plentiful fruit and parallels to the full bodied red wines of which they are related. 

With that in mind I look forward to cracking some Rosé in the winter time and checking the look on my friends’ faces when I serve a wine that would seem out of season. Once they take a sip though, all that fuss will fade away!

Cheers!

Jason

A Taste of “The Other 46” for the 2011 Summer of Riesling

At the 2011 Wine Bloggers Conference participants had the chance to taste wines from “The Other 46”, which is this case was open to wines from states other than California, Washington, Oregon and New York. I seized on this opportunity and tasted as many of them as I could. Wines from Missouri, Ohio, Maryland, Texas, Indiana and our host state Virginia were poured. To me this was the ultimate experience of exploration, tasting wine from states that have a local reach that I might not otherwise easily have the chance to try.

It was with the above approach that efforts from both my mother (thanks Mom!) and I culminated in the organization of an Other 46  / Summer of Riesling tasting of wines at home. I exempted my own state, NH, swapping it out for New York in lining up wines, with the states of New York, Michigan and Connecticut represented in our tasting. As I mentioned in my recent posts from my one-day vacation to Maine, I was not successful procuring Riesling from  that state, and slow progress in sourcing Riesling from MA, RI and VT means that I am at risk of not finishing my tour of New England for Summer of Riesling, but I’m trying!

No casual wine tasting is complete without some snacks. As you can see from the picture below, we did pretty good this time! Parmesan, Grafton Village Cheese Smoked Cheddar and Berkshire Blue were paired with peaches, strawberries, apples and crusty bread for a wide range of earthy and fruit flavors to pair with the wines.

The first wine was the Sharpe Hill 2005 Dry Riesling from Connecticut. The nose had a petrol element to it that I was quite surprised to find in a Riesling made outside Europe where I typically detect that aroma. I also found green apple aromas with hints of minerality. This wine is steely and stony on the palate, with minimal fruit. I conclude that the wine is showing its age, but hasn’t yet reached a place where I could say it is flawed. The finish is dry, of moderate length containing some citrus notes. This was the wine I felt has the most pronounced nose, and one I would recognize as a Riesling hands down.

I included my homemade 2008 Riesling/Gewurztraminer blend as a reference wine. Aromas of slate and sulfur were immediately found. In the mouth the wine has peach flavor, is off-dry and has a short finish. This wine is past its prime and isn’t really worth drinking.

The next wine was the Dr. Konstantin Frank 2010 Semi-Dry Riesling from the Finger Lakes region of New York State. I found both apricot and herbs in the nose. The wine is slightly sweet with the flavors of peach and citrus, where the citrus builds and lingers along the finish. The acidity in the finish makes the wine much more refreshing than the early part of the taste might suggest. This was the wine with the best balance of the three wines tasted.

The last wine was the Chateau Grand Traverse 2010 Late Harvest Riesling from Michigan. Aromas of dried fruits, orange blossoms and spices emanate from the glass. There is also a bit of a wild aroma to the wine, similar to ice wines made from Riesling grapes. Flavors of orange and peach are wrapped some residual sugar that comes off much drier than I expected it to be. There is an acidity that comes in at the beginning of the finish, but it trails off long before the flavors do.

The more Rieslings I taste the more I want to try them from as many places where it is made. Do you have a favorite Riesling that isn’t made in CA, WA or OR? Leave a comment with the name, vintage and state of origin. Who knows, I might just seek it out and try it before the end of summer!

Cheers!

Jason

Chicken & Squash Curry with Riesling, a Summer of Riesling Pairing

Food and wine pairing is fun to do in an experimental way because you never know what is going to happen and you have to be ready for both success and failure. Luckily a came out on the success side with this pairing for my enjoyment of the 2011 Summer of Riesling.

I included the Kendall Jackson Vintners Reserve 2009 Riesling based on my past experiences with their Grand Reserve Chardonnay and expectations that they produce equally enjoyable Rieslings. That’s a risk in itself, but one that as I alluded to above, I was prepared to be on either side of. As it has been with quite a few of my Summer of Riesling wines, the wine is accessible to many and has a reasonable price point, $11.99 at my local store, making it a solid everyday recommendation.

Kendall Jackson Vintners Reserve 2009 Riesling

Dry stone, apricot and tropical notes in the nose. Very light on the palate, sweet but not very at all. On the palate I picked up citrus flowers and a spicy element that moves back and forth between spices (ginger, cinnamon and the like) and minerality. The finish is smooth and clean. Overall none of the elements of the wine are pushy so a balance is there making it a very approachable wine.

The wine is not a 100% varietal bottling, and has Chardonnay, Gewurtraminer, Viognier and Muscat Canelli also in the mix. An interesting blend to be sure. KJ doesn’t bottle a straight Riesling which if available would be interesting to contrast with this wine.

The next chance I took was attempting a pairing without having had the wine yet. That’s where the fun comes in. I knew it had some residual sugar so using spices in the dish it would be paired with was the first thing that came to mind.

How about a Chicken & Squash Curry? The Indian spices would offer that zippy vector and the creamy, slightly sweet squash would get a boost from the fruit and sugar in the wine. Here’s the recipe I pulled together from several ideas and some of past experiences with making Indian food at home.

Chicken & Squash Curry

For chicken preparation:

1 lb boneless chicken, cubed

½ tsp ground allspice

1 tsp turmeric

2 tsp olive oil

Dash of salt

Dash of black pepper

For the curry:

1 large white onion, chopped

1 large red pepper, chopped

2 inch piece of ginger, minced

6 garlic cloves, minced

½ jalapeno, minced

4 Tbps butter

½ Orange Buttercup Squash, peeled, cleaned & cubed

1 Tbsp curry powder

2 tsp Garam Masala

1 tsp Thai fish sauce

1 Tbsp lime juice

1 can light coconut milk

4 oz pineapple juice

2 cups vegetable broth

1 Tbsp cornstarch & water to mix

2 Tbsp cilantro paste

6 servings of Basmati rice cooked with water and 2 Tbsp cumin seeds

Heat the olive oil in a small skillet over medium heat. Begin to brown the chicken in the oil. Add the spices and cook until no pink is visible and spices are fragrant. Remove from heat

Melt the butter in a large pot, add the onion, pepper, ginger, and garlic. Sautee until the onions begin to brown. Add the jalapeno, squash, curry powder, Garam Masala, fish sauce, lime juice and toss to coat. Add the coconut milk, pineapple juice and broth. Increase the heat to bring the curry to a boil. Once boiling add the chicken and reduce the heat to med-low and simmer for 20-30 minutes. Some of the liquid will boil off and the curry will begin to thicken. Add the cornstarch and water and increase the heat to continue to thicken it. Cook for another 10 minutes or so. Remove from the heat and mix in the cilantro paste. Serve over the hot rice with Indian flatbread and/or appetizer items like Pakora and Samosa.

The pairing of the curry and the wine really did work. Here’s why. Both the wine and food retained their unique attributes when taken together with neither of them getting smothered by the other. The spices in the curry and the sweetness in the wine were balanced against each other. The amount of black pepper (in the Garam Masala too), use of standard non-spicy curry powder and restraint on the jalapeno produced a mild curry where a good deal of spice came from the ginger. I think the limited residual sugar of the wine found a good home here. The fruit in the wine tasted great up against the meaty flesh of the squash which had gotten soft but wasn’t outright falling apart. The manageable acidity and clean finish of the wine helped with the creamy density in the curry from both the coconut milk and the squash.

A success! I was very happy with this pairing experiment and even if it hadn’t gone well, both the food and the wine have considerable merit on their own so nothing would have been lost in this.

Are you enjoying the Summer of Riesling? If not, consider taking a Riesling for a spin over the Labor Day Weekend. There are so many to choose from and quite a few aren’t the simple plonk that Riesling’s reputation often suggests.

Cheers!

Jason

The Last Throes of Summer - Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc

( A great place to sit at sunset, too bad it was cloudy at picture time! )

* This wine was the recommendation I contributed to today's (9/1/2011) post 12 Most Fabulous Wines to Enjoy Now For Under $20 at 12most.com which was coordinated by my wine blogger friend Marie Payton at www.lifeofvines.com. Click the link above to see the other 11 recommendations.

The sun is dipping ever more quickly at the end of each day now in New England. Summer is fleeting. While we hang on to those warm days our summer drinking habits still reign, and the Kim Crawford 2010 Sauvignon Blanc is a wine with summer written all over it!

Light in body with aromas of tropical fruit, herbs and a crispness that begins to quench with the first sip, this wine can help make your warm weather occasion the most it can be.

But all may not be well. It’s almost like I’ve gotten two different wines (both labeled as the most recent vintage) in my last two outings with the Kim Crawford 2010 Sauvignon Blanc.

My most recent tasting, for this post, was of an herbal, bell pepper driven Sauvignon Blanc with limited fruit in the nose and a just bit more on the palate. This was not what I expected. The wine is sound and pleasant to drink, but with a different profile than I have experienced before. I can see this wine working in the place I have in mind for it, because it is refreshing when cold, but without the tropical notes up front it just doesn’t have as strong of a link to summer. I have another bottle on hand and can’t wait to see what it holds.

My prior tasting was at the Firegrill in Montreal with Margot and her family as we celebrated the life of their uncle who had lived better than most people ever hope they could. Maybe the wine tasted better as I rode high on emotions, BUT it was different! The aroma on it was huge, slightly floral and definitely tropical. There was a touch more acid in this one than the most recent, and the finish was a bit more flavorful as well. This is the version I recall from two prior tastings. It was summer in Montreal and the warm walk back to the Grand Seminary with a bit of spring in my step from the refreshing wine was therapeutic.

This wine was sourced from my local state run liquor store for $17.99.

As we grasp the last days of another summer what are you drinking? Have you already thought of switching gears for the cooler days ahead?

Cheers!

Jason